Impulse Buy

We all do it, something catches our attention and suddenly the basket has been filled and the “pay now” button pressed. Usually I’m a little cautions when it comes to buying PDF patterns, unless they’re from Thread Theory, then I just buy them.  It’s a guy thing, no-one else has patterns anything like theirs so I get them for making for the other half.  One day.

The slip this time came when I followed a link to the new Named Clothing collection.  I’ve admired their asthetic for a while, but never taken the plunge.  This time however, my finger slipped onto the “add to basket” button and I’d checked out before I could think!  So what made me part with my cash?  The Pulmu Pencil Skirt!

pulmu
Pulmu High Waisted Pencil Skirt. (image from Named Clothing)

I fell for the high waist, the seams from what would be a dart on the front and back down to a point at the side, the deep vents, the belt…  Seriously, I’m not sure if there’s anything I didn’t like about it!  So my first ever Named pattern was bought and sent off to my private printer to print the copy shop version asap!  The PDF is layered, you need only print the size(s) you need.  I got the other half to print the whole lot, I don’t want to be printing off different ones each time I want a different size!  Also helps if the person you’re making for is not one standard size.

I’m intending to make this pattern for three different people, and possibly more than one each, if they’ll let me!  Starting with one for Daughter No1, who’s working now and requiring smart clothing.  From her measurements, I decided to trace the UK 6 which looked like it might be a little baggy at the hip.  The first toile was run up in some yellow linen from the stash.  Yes, it was a little baggy over the hip, and actually a bit loose around the waist.  It was also far too long!!  I knew this would be an issue, just needed to know how much.

collage-pulmu-toile1
First Pulmu toile.

Named Clothing patterns are designed for those of a certain stature, tall!  That’s one thing Daughter No1 is not.  At 1.62m, she’s about 10m shorter than the ideal person Named design for.  I chose to shorten the skirt at the hip and above the knee to avoid distorting the shape of the side seams.  I managed to eliminate 8cm from the length without messing around too much with the shaping of the seams and still having good proportions.  The hip line was smoothed out and the high waist reduced by 0.7cm on each seam which gives a much better fit.  The second toile looks great but I was concerned that it was still a bit too long.  Daughter No1 however, loves this length, so who am I to change it??  So now the pattern has been adjusted and is ready for the final fabric.

collage-pulmu-toile2
Second Pulmu toile.

I chose a black crepe (polyester) from Croft Mill Fabric, and got round my self imposed fabric buying ban by getting Daughter No1 to buy it!  As it’s for her, I didn’t see why not!  The fabric should arrive any day now and I can’t wait to get it started.  This is going to be one fabulous skirt!

 

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The Bellatrix Blazer – Take One Curtain

Yup, you read that correctly!  This jacket has been made using a curtain – let me explain.  I won the Papercut Patterns Bellatrix Blazer in Kat‘s giveaway last year.  I had a pretty good idea it would look pretty fabulous on the Daughters, and I especially liked the cropped version.

Bellatrix
Bellatrix

Thankfully I have a lightbox, because I needed it to trace the pattern!  For this first go I was going completely by the book & Daughter No2’s measurements.  With a new pattern I like to keep it simple and see where I need to alter, & I like to do the whole thing according to the instructions, so I can decided where I’d do things differently.  On the whole, the pattern went together really well.  One thing I don’t like is a bagged lining, so that’s definitely going to be changed when I make the “real thing”.  I will also be lengthening the sleeve by about 8cm (Daughter No2 has orangutang arms).

DSC06941

I made the toile from a sturdy cotton jaquard curtain fabric to replicate what it may be like in a wool or maybe a thick twill.  Considering there is no interfacing in it, I think it stands up quite well.  Of course there is always a hitch…  I put it all together & then did a fitting.  Daughter No2 immediately went into raptures & wanted to wear it as is – “I like it, the colour is cool, the fabric is cool…”  Really??  It’s a CURTAIN!!  I have a serious problem – I am incapable of saying the word “No”.  So I looked doubtful instead & said, there’s no interfacing – it needs to be lined…

DSC06942

But there was no dissuading her.  So I retrofitted the lining – no easy feat, I can tell you!  There is no understitching on the collar, no stay-tape & actually no fastening either, but she thinks its fab & went out in it tonight…  I guess I’d better get cracking on the proper one now, but I’ll take my time, afterall, she has a new jacket already!  🙂

DSC06939But before she gets another blazer, I need my Jungle attire!

p.s. I gave in to temptation & made this version

Playing with paper

Pattern Magic - Tying a Bow

I have finally got the bodice blocks drafted and adjusted.  This morning, with the damp and dreary conditions outside, I decided would be the day – the Magic day!  I have adapted bodice blocks drafted from Winnifred Aldrich to the style of the block in Pattern Magic.  Now I am having a brilliant an interesting time playing with the adaptations.  I really want to get the toile finished by school pick up time!!  Here are some pics of the patternwork in progress today.

Front bodice adaptations - tying a knot

Front is marked up with the pleat and the slash lines, just needs the skirt for the dress.

Slashing the front open

Skirt added, lines slashed and armhole dart closed.  There is an 8cm gap between all the slash points.

Dress front complete

Just look at the size of that monster!  I recon this is going to take quite a bit of calico.

Back bodice adaptation - tying a knot

The back is much simpler.

On the subject, I notice Amazon UK have another book by Nakamichi Tomoko, Pattern Magic:  Cut and Sewn.  I wonder how long it will be until this is available in English??

So now I just need to figure out how it all goes together.  Hopefully the toile plays ball  and there will be more photos later.

***   UPDATE   ***

Toile - Knot Dress

Toile complete!  I altered the pattern slightly, leaving off the pleat in the front, and adding a 6cm flare instead.  I think I might just leave this off too, as the front is wide enough!

Toile - Knot Dress

Daughter no 2 likes the style, but wants it more fitted in this weight fabric.  So I was thinking of making it in linen…  I will have to make it more fitted to the waist if I do it in linen, but apparently it won’t “be so bad” if I use a floaty fabric. I just may have something in my stash.

Toile - Knot Dress

I guess I am off to source some suitable fabric now!

Back on Track – the Skirt

Despite finding that lovely Liberty fabric last week and wanting to make the dress, I have stuck it out and made a skirt.  I used Winnie’s Tailored Skirt block.  When I drafted the block I was aware that the hip curve might be a little poofy – something that Winnie’s skirts tend to do on some people.  I made a note to check this when I did the fitting.

Tailored Skirt Block

The block actually fits well, apart from the poofy bit on the side.  The side seams hang perpendicular to the floor, there is no pulling and no baggy bit at the back.  All I needed to do was to adjust the hipline curve where I pinned on the toile.

Tailored Skirt Toile
Tailored Skirt Toile
Hip Adjustment

Once the adjustment was marked on the pattern I started the adaptation for a 12 gore skirt.  I had decided to make a skater skirt without a gathered waist.  I wanted something fitted to the hip and flaring out gently.  I divided the front and back along the hipline into 3 and moved the darts on the back to line up with the panel lines, the darts were made a little bigger and to compensate for this I moved the side seam out from the hip to the waist by 1cm.  I did the same on the front and added a 2nd dart to go onto the 2nd panel.  I marked the grainlines on the centre of each piece, labeled them and cut them up.  I added 4cm flare to the hemline of each piece, on each side, tapering to a point 14cm below the waist on the panel seam.  I am not going to have a separate waistband, but will draft a facing.  The zip will go in the centre back seam.

Skirt Pattern With Style Lines Marked
Skater Skirt – Pattern Pieces

The toile of the skirt fits really well, I love the line of the flare.  I have 2 different fabrics to make this in, one a lightweight beige linen with a white pinstripe, and the other a retro print cotton sateen.  It will be interesting to see how different the skirt looks with these two different fabrics.

Skater Skirt – Toile
Skater Skirt – Toile