Ditto

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BurdaStyle 7/8 trousers 105 May 2017

I’ve found another favourite trouser pattern to add to my list.  I liked the cropped wide trousers from the May 2017 edition immediately and dived into the stash almost straight away to find something suitable to cut up!  I went ahead and traced the 44 & 42 anyway. (44 for the waist, grading to the 42 at the hip and down)   I had an idea that a piece of grey chambray I’d bought from Croft Mill last year to make a top just might be good for this pattern.

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The fabric was narrow than that required, and although I had 2m, it wasn’t enough to make the trousers up as the pattern was.  The bottom part of the trouser leg is folded in half to make a deep cuff, that was the first bit to go, no double folding, just a deep hem.  Next, the easiest bit to change – the pocket linings.  I used a scrap of Liberty lawn, black and charcoal with madly bright printed flowers.

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I haven’t shortened the pattern at all, and I think maybe, just maybe, I should look at removing about 4cm from the length, in the main trouser section, probably a the knee line.  I’m happy with the length while wearing them, but when I see photos I do think they could possibly look better shorter.  Especially if I’m wearing flats.  They’re almost culottes, no pleats or extra width, but wearing them feels like wearing culottes, without the extra bulk.

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Enter version two!!  I was digging in the stash for something else entirely when I dug out a large-ish piece of lightweight black linen.  I immediately thought of the cropped trousers again, I don’t have a pair of black linen trousers yet.  This was a piece that had already been cut into, I cannot remember what else I’d made from it!  I used the pattern in the same way as the first pair, still not enough fabric to do the double cuffs.  The waistband facing is cut from white and black polka dot cotton, which is used for the pocket linings too.

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It just needed a bit of something else…  I thought there might be some silver ribbon or something in the ribbon box that could be useful and came up with a bit of silver piping instead!  It’s so cool on the edge of the pocket, but there is one drawback.  The pockets are nice and deep, the angle of entry just “gives” enough to be able to shove your hands in comfortably.  However, with the piping on a cotton tape this doesn’t really happen, not to mention the piping is not soft, the silver metallic threads are rough.  So it’s not as comfortable to shove my hands in these pockets as it is in the other pair.

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I love the back pocket, deep enough to hold my mobile phone ūüôā  All buttons came from the stash, as did the zips, although I now have to replenish my stash of black invisible zips.  I have yet to make the full length version, but as it’s quite similar to others I have, I might give it a miss, enjoying the cropped versions for what’s let of our British summer (which already feels like autumn….)  I know southern Europe is struggling with the intense heatwave of the last few weeks, but I don’t think we’d mind if the Jet Stream shifted a little more north and brought us some of that heat for a little.

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In the mean time, I’m working on a 1920s flapper dress in gold and black sequins for a friend to wear to a themed ball early in September, trying to get my Morgan Boyfriend jeans to fit better and find the time to run up a black linen jumpsuit before it’s too late to wear it.  See you on the other side!!!

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Silver Dream

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Burdastyle trousers and silk top

It’s good to be pushed out of your comfort zone sometimes. ¬†I joined in with a Facebook Group sew-along that started in January where the challenge was to make 8 items using patterns already in your stash. ¬†The idea, to look again at what you had bought and never got round to using. ¬†Those poor patterns you buy on impulse because you like the cover, or you’ve seen someone online make it and you liked it but for some reason you just haven’t committed.

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It all came to an end at the end of April, and my 8th submitted item was these trousers. ¬†The pattern is Burda 6689, I think I bought it about 3 years ago, intending to make Daughter No 1 a pair. ¬†Needless to say we never got round to it, so it was the perfect pattern to finish off my collection of tops. ¬†The fabric is from Fabric Godmother. ¬†Thank goodness there wasn’t a stipulation that the fabric all had to come from the stash too, because I’d have lucked out here!! ¬†Although, this is the only new piece I bought to complete the challenge.

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Gratuitous bum shot, you can still see the pockets through the fabric…

I initially toiled the 46, then realised, as usual, that it was too big.  After making the 44 the crotch depth had to be reduced by 1cm, crotch curves had to change (come closer to the body) and the back crotch scooped out a little more.  The crotch length in the back was decreased, bringing the waistband down about 1.5cm.  The inseams were taken in on the back only.  That seemed to work, the toile hung straight and there were minimal drag lines.  There was a hope that the final fabric, having more body than the toile fabric, would hang well and all would be good!

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The fabric itself is yummy, quite soft and subtle with a decent stretch. ¬†However, I think it’s one of those fabrics that will lose colour on folded edges so although I ironed the front crease in well for the photos and first wear, I will not continue to do so. ¬†I think I will end up with a nice pale line down the front of my pants. ¬†I used a piece of left over Liberty city poplin for the pocket linings and inner waistband. ¬†This stops the waistband stretching out of shape with wear.

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I love the back pockets, initially I wasn’t going to do them, but I’m glad I did. ¬†I took my time over them, with the stretch fabric I didn’t want things going awry. ¬†I basted and whipstitched and did all those things you’re supposed to do with proper pockets, rather than just whip my way though! ¬†All the insides are overlocked, I could have French seamed the pockets but was worried about seeing the lines through the outer fabric.

 

(Click on the thumbnails to see full size images)

The finished trousers are pretty good. ¬†I think I still need to work on the crotch depth/length though. ¬†Might just be the fabric, during the day they definitely get baggier and looser around the bum area and I end up pulling the waistband up more. ¬†The front still needs work too, that’s a job for the next pair. ¬†Once I put them on I wasn’t so sure about the length! ¬†I’ve been wearing floor skimming Birkin Flares all winter so these tapered pants floating high above my ankles feel a little funny. ¬†So I unfolded the 3cm hem and dug out some wide bias tape. ¬†I’ve attached the tape with a 5mm seam and used that for the hem. ¬†So these pants are 2.5cm longer than they should be, I never thought I’d be lengthening a pair of Burda trousers for me!!!

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I love the colour of these pants, they go with just about everything in my wardrobe and can switch between casual and smart with ease. ¬†If I don’t come up with anything else, I might even wear them to a wedding we have to go to in July. ¬†I quite liked using only patterns from the stash, not including the Burda magazines, I didn’t think I had all that many – turns out there are plenty, and still some I haven’t used (let alone printed off or downloaded…..). ¬†No more waste!!

For Me-Made-May this year I’ve decided to identify gaps in my handmade wardrobe and to finish them within the month, as well as to use more from my re-make/re-cut bag. ¬†So we’ll see what I come up with!

 

 

Geometric Trousers

Geometric print trousers
Geometric print trousers

Here’s another of those fabulous, “make me more than once” patterns.¬† I posted a whole pile of my own tried & tested Burda patterns last month, this is definitely another, but for the girls this time.¬† I have used this pattern, which comes as a petite in the magazine, five times now, all successfully.

DSC07930-1The pattern is Style 123 from Burdastyle magazine, June 2011.¬† Daughter No1 is the lucky recipient of this particular pair, and I used the pattern in the petite format, making them an extra 2cm shorter.¬† I think the German ladies these patterns are designed for must have really long legs.¬† When I made this pattern for Daughter No2, who is pretty tall, all I needed to do was to adjust the pattern for “normal” height.¬† I had thought I’d need to lengthen it again for a “tall” person, but the length was just right.¬† However, for Daughter No1, whose legs are a fair bit shorter, I actually needed to shorten the pattern some more!¬† I took those extra 2cm out of between the kneeline and the hem.

DSC07932-1Looking at the photos now, I think I’ll be taking them in a little more from just below the crotch line to the hem, they are a little too wide on her legs.¬† I made the 17, which would equate to the 34 in the ordinary sizes.¬† The fabric is pretty cool.¬† I’d seen it on the Stitch Fabrics website, labelled as Prada twill and wanted it!¬† It is a cotton/lycra blend, but hasn’t got so much lycra that it gets all stretchy out of shape.¬† Originally it was going to be a jacket for me, but the beige is too – well, beige!¬† ūüôā

DSC07934-1I offered it to Daughter No1 for trousers & she was definitely in agreement.  It was she who suggested using this pattern as she loves the last pair I made in a black & white mini-houndstooth.  I used a black grossgrain ribbon in the centre of the waistband.  I love the way it looks like a belt, but it also serves a practical purpose.  As the fabric has stretch, this stops the waistband getting sloppy through the day.

DSC07927-1¬† I used a hook & bar closing instead of a button, it makes for a smoother finish.¬† The insides were all overlocked before I started sewing, and boy did that make me sneeze!¬† There was so much fluff!¬† I also used a stretch needle.¬† I have found that with fabrics with a certain amount of lycra or elastene, that a normal needle leaves holes.¬† I used a stretch 75/11 for these trousers.¬† Overall I am happy with this make, I will go back and taper the legs a bit more but I love the print, it’s perfect for trousers!

I also think this makes a good entry for the Monthly Stitch Sewing Double…¬† Here are the other versions:

For the Love of Hibiscus, made for Daughter No2;

I Love it! Vintage style Trousers, Daughter No1’s first pair;

Vintage Style Spotty Trousers, made for Daughter No2;

Vintage Style Cropped Trousers, the first pair I made.

Now I have to cut out some pretty silk, for my next “Sewing Double” instalment! ūüôā