Ditto

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BurdaStyle 7/8 trousers 105 May 2017

I’ve found another favourite trouser pattern to add to my list.  I liked the cropped wide trousers from the May 2017 edition immediately and dived into the stash almost straight away to find something suitable to cut up!  I went ahead and traced the 44 & 42 anyway. (44 for the waist, grading to the 42 at the hip and down)   I had an idea that a piece of grey chambray I’d bought from Croft Mill last year to make a top just might be good for this pattern.

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The fabric was narrow than that required, and although I had 2m, it wasn’t enough to make the trousers up as the pattern was.  The bottom part of the trouser leg is folded in half to make a deep cuff, that was the first bit to go, no double folding, just a deep hem.  Next, the easiest bit to change – the pocket linings.  I used a scrap of Liberty lawn, black and charcoal with madly bright printed flowers.

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I haven’t shortened the pattern at all, and I think maybe, just maybe, I should look at removing about 4cm from the length, in the main trouser section, probably a the knee line.  I’m happy with the length while wearing them, but when I see photos I do think they could possibly look better shorter.  Especially if I’m wearing flats.  They’re almost culottes, no pleats or extra width, but wearing them feels like wearing culottes, without the extra bulk.

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Enter version two!!  I was digging in the stash for something else entirely when I dug out a large-ish piece of lightweight black linen.  I immediately thought of the cropped trousers again, I don’t have a pair of black linen trousers yet.  This was a piece that had already been cut into, I cannot remember what else I’d made from it!  I used the pattern in the same way as the first pair, still not enough fabric to do the double cuffs.  The waistband facing is cut from white and black polka dot cotton, which is used for the pocket linings too.

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It just needed a bit of something else…  I thought there might be some silver ribbon or something in the ribbon box that could be useful and came up with a bit of silver piping instead!  It’s so cool on the edge of the pocket, but there is one drawback.  The pockets are nice and deep, the angle of entry just “gives” enough to be able to shove your hands in comfortably.  However, with the piping on a cotton tape this doesn’t really happen, not to mention the piping is not soft, the silver metallic threads are rough.  So it’s not as comfortable to shove my hands in these pockets as it is in the other pair.

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I love the back pocket, deep enough to hold my mobile phone ūüôā  All buttons came from the stash, as did the zips, although I now have to replenish my stash of black invisible zips.  I have yet to make the full length version, but as it’s quite similar to others I have, I might give it a miss, enjoying the cropped versions for what’s let of our British summer (which already feels like autumn….)  I know southern Europe is struggling with the intense heatwave of the last few weeks, but I don’t think we’d mind if the Jet Stream shifted a little more north and brought us some of that heat for a little.

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In the mean time, I’m working on a 1920s flapper dress in gold and black sequins for a friend to wear to a themed ball early in September, trying to get my Morgan Boyfriend jeans to fit better and find the time to run up a black linen jumpsuit before it’s too late to wear it.  See you on the other side!!!

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Argentum

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Burda top 105 02/2016

The fourth, and most definitely not the last version of this top, Burda 105 from February 2016. ¬†This is the result of a nice big stash bust! ¬†In moving fabric from the original stash position in my bedroom cupboard, to it’s new home in the guest room cupboard (until it has a “permanent” home in the sewing room), I came across this gorgeous metallic silver embroidered linen. ¬†I bought it in 2009 to make a corset. ¬†Needless to say the corset has never seen the light of day, but I did have a decent amount of the fabric left-over to be useful.

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Combined with a small piece of cream linen from the scrapbox, which thankfully matched the embroidery, this top was born!  I think I might be able to make these in my sleep now.  I wish I could, at any rate!  Sewing in your sleep while still a. producing something wearable, and b. getting much needed rest would be a super power I could deal with.  The metallic linen is sturdier than the cream, because of the metallic finish and the embroidery.  This gives the top a more boxy shape than any of the other versions, which I quite like. I love wearing it with my Birkin Flares.

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I’ve had many comments on the top, it’s not often you see a lovely fabric like this. ¬†I am concerned that the metallic finish might wash off (given the rotation it’s currently enjoying in my wardrobe, this is a major worry!), so I’m washing on a handwash cycle in the machine for now. ¬†It doesn’t like the iron, so needs to be pressed on the reverse.

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I had to cut the back without a fold and meant to use a centre seam, but in the cutting out, because I hadn’t marked that it still needed seam, I cut along the back edge. ¬†Clever… ¬†However, because the fabric was to be a corset and I still had all the bits left over, I had a pile of cut and pressed self bias binding. ¬†So using a 5mm seam on each back piece, a bias strip now forms the centre back. ¬†It looks like it’s supposed to be there on the outside, so I’m not complaining. ¬†So another successful stashbust for me!

Roads Untravelled

And patterns unmade! ¬†There’s one problem with buying Burda magazines every month for the last 20 years. ¬†I have loads and loads and loads of patterns that I thought I’d make but have not got round to. ¬†During Me Made May this year I spotted a rather nice top on my IG feed. ¬†Turns out the pattern was one from a Burda magazine that I’d marked to make – you know the rest!

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top 124 Burda 05/2015

Having identified a lack of white tops in my wardrobe, it was decided to make the pattern up in some gorgeous white viscose voile from Croft Mill. ¬†This fabric is to die for, just beautiful (but no longer available!). ¬†Having bought 2 metres and found just how lovely it was, I immediately got another 3 to hide in the stash! ¬†I know I’m supposed to be clearing it out, but this will be a useful stash, white never goes out of fashion. ¬†*whispers* and I could always die it…

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The pattern is 124 from May 2015, available from the Burdastyle site as a download here. ¬†I traced the 44 and added just the length part of a FBA as there was plenty of width for me. ¬†I used the seam across the bust to add a total 3cm in length. ¬†Seems to have worked pretty well. ¬†Necklines too close to the neck aren’t usually my thing, I feel like I’m being strangled! ¬†Scoop and v-necks are more my look, but this works. ¬†The keyhole opening gives interest to the front (no mono-boob) and there’s enough room at the neck not to feel choked.

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French seams and double turned hems keep the insides all neat and tidy and the bias edges are lovely for the neckline. ¬†I’ve worn this top at least one a week since making it, pretty much as soon as it’s clean and ironed, I’m wearing it again! ¬†I think I need more white viscose voile tops! ¬†The button is a vintage glass find from a local antique shop, so pretty!

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The silk version

I think it’s a good pattern for mixing and matching too, using scraps and odd ends of fabrics. ¬†Just to test that theory I made another from stashed fabrics. ¬†This top started with a piece of devine blue silk satin bought from Rosenberg and Son years and years ago (it was one of those you have to get, despite not having any idea when you’ll use it). ¬†It was narrow and I’d cut bits out of the one end to use in a blouse about 5 years ago. ¬†funny, that exact fabric is what I’m using in this top! ¬†That blouse was the thinnest silk satin devore and it holied up pretty quickly. ¬†But, as usual, I hadn’t thrown it out.

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My new top would combine fabrics again, but with the plain silk satin as the dominant fabric. ¬†The back yoke and sleeves were cut from the larger areas of the original top and the blue fabric made up the rest. ¬†It’s beautiful!! ¬†The satin is heavier and drapier than the viscose voile, which has the effect of pulling down more – making that keyhole opening lower.. ¬†it’s fine while standing and walking, but when sitting, it’s a little too low. ¬†Either I live with it or I do something about it, but I’m not sure what without totally ruining the look.

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Contrast fabric forming the sleeves and back yoke

French seams were not on the table this time round, the silk was too thick and would have left bulky evidence on the right side, so the overlocker was drafted in. ¬†Hems aren’t double turned either, this stuff is slippery as all heck and a nightmare to turn on a tight curve! ¬†Thankfully the bias behaved itself. ¬†I really like this pattern, why did it take me two years to get round to making it up after marking it as interesting??

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I’m definitely going to be making more, it’s a pattern that could be useful for using up all sorts of smaller pieces of fabrics, and for playing with bias yokes – thinking stripes here. ¬†I might even change the sleeve to a three quarter length and have some for my winter wardrobe, it’s about time to start thinking of warmer clothes now, like it or not. ¬†And coats!!

Sleep in a Bed of Roses

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Burdastyle Pajamas in floral cotton

Well, pjs of roses anyway – and other flowers! ¬†I’ve been on a pj making spree lately, I’ve got two sets of Carolyn Pjs of my own now (one still to bog), and here’s a pair I’ve made for Daughter No 2 to take back to Uni in September.

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Details

It wasn’t in the plan to make her another pair just yet, but in moving my fabric from boxes in my bedroom cupboard to shelves in a different cupboard, I rediscovered this pretty fabric – not quite believing there was still so much of it left! ¬†I’ve already made two dresses from it, here and here. ¬†I really don’t know what made me think, “This’ll make perfect pjs”, but I did. ¬†So I sent a snapchat asking permission to make pajamas with the floral fabric and got a thumbs up in reply, but longer sleeves and trousers please.

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So I dug out the Burda magazine I’d used before, December 2014, and traced the sleeve from the nightshirt/gown version of the pattern, as well as the cropped trousers. ¬†The patterns are 133 for the top, 134 for the gown/nightshirt and 135 for the trousers. ¬†The trousers went together really easily, I left off piping and used contrasting pink topstitching instead. ¬†The trouser hems have a facing which negates the need to mitre hems, that saves time! ūüôā ¬†I sewed on a length of green reversible satin ribbon at the front, good tip for identifying which way round they go on.

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The top is pretty much the same as last time, apart from the sleeves. ¬†The patch pockets have more pink topstitching, and I left out the cuff at the hem of the sleeve. ¬†We were after a 3/4 length. ¬†Pink buttonholes and stripey buttons complete the look. ¬†I did try yellow or green but I didn’t have the right shade and was determined everything should come from the stash!

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Can you believe, there is still enough of this fabric to make something else!?!? ¬†I might leave it for a bit and make some little girl’s dresses from it. ¬†I have a friend who is moving to New Zealand later this year so I’ll wait until they’re settled and send a box of goodies!

In the meantime, I have a dedicated sewing room!! ¬†Can you believe it? ¬†I love my new space. ¬†It’s not complete yet, but it’s suitable for sewing! ¬†I still need storage on the walls, all the fabric is still in other rooms and cupboards (and the loft!), but the vintage patterns are here and the majority of the Burda magazines I “need” to use this year. ¬†And I have space for two machines out at once without having to shift them over to use them. ¬†It’s bliss…..

Birds for the Summer

So, this post should have gone live last week, but it seems I’m unable to use the scheduling tool properly….

Burda skirt 106 5/2012

It’s another make for daughter No 2 to take to Madeira. ¬†The pattern is Burdastyle, #106 from May 2012 (unfortunately not available as a download on the website). ¬†She’d put this pattern on her list of “wants” for this year. ¬†Luckily she’d had a good wardrobe clear-out, helped by her sister, last summer. ¬†So now, instead of me just making what I think she’ll like, I’m sticking to The List.

While routing through my fabric stash at the same time, she chose this grey bird print cotton for the skirt. ¬†It was what was left over after making a gorgeous vintage dress I’d made a couple of years ago. ¬†There is pretty much nothing left of that fabric now, so I’m chuffed that’s another piece properly used up!!

We love the high waist on this skirt, and the pockets have received the thumbs up as well! ¬†The skirt consists of front and back panels, as well as side panels, all gored to provide a decent amount of fullness that ends below the knee. ¬†The centre front consists of a concealed button stand, the instructions for which were a little odd – the next time I make this I’ll be doing it very differently.

The pockets are a doddle, the welts could provide for a design feature, using an alternative grain or fabric to emphasise them would look good.  Piping could also be inserted at the join.  I used black buttons from the stash for the majority of the (hidden) buttons, and two grey buttons for the visible buttons at the waist.

It’s all in the details

I took the waist in to make it similar to the culottes I’d just finished, but for some reason although that works just fine, on the skirt it’s a little on the tight side. ¬†Of course, we only realised that after she’d taken the skirt away! ¬†So when it comes home with her before she heads off back to Uni in September, I’ll let the waist out again. ¬†I’d love to make another version of this pattern, that mustard in the original photograph is still lurking in the back of my brain…

I need to get on with photographing all my June makes, I’ve been quite happily wearing them all, but no photos just yet! ¬†In the meantime, The Monthly Stitch will be kicking off Independent Pattern Month again in July and I’ve decided to take part again. ¬†I’ll do anything to get through my stash faster! ¬†Anyone else interested?

Hook, Line & Sinker

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Burdastyle culottes 104 2/2017

I’ve really fallen for this pattern. ¬†It’s been made in three different fabrics so far and I love each & every (very different) one. ¬†The pattern is ¬†culottes 104 from the February 2017 Burdastyle magazine. ¬†Made late last month for Daughter No2 to take on her holiday to Madeira, she chose a linen viscose blend new to the stash bought from Fabric Godmother earlier in the year. ¬†It was advertised as khaki, but was far more brown when it arrived, so I didn’t want it for me. ¬†However, Daughter No2 was happy with it.

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The innards are all overlocked, but I used the sewing manchine for the construction. ¬†Unlike the two versions made for Daughter No1, this one has the original front fly zip, belt loops and long tie belt. ¬†All the elements work on this one. ¬†All I eliminated was the back flap that hints at a pocket there, but has none. ¬†I might add an actual pocket to another version as it’s usually handy to have a back pocket for your phone.

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The construction was pretty straight forward, the facings and fly zip guard construction is the same as another pair of Burda trousers I’ve made hundreds of times so the instructions didn’t phase me as they seem to have done for some other makers of this pattern. ¬†I made the 36, but ended up taking the waist in so much it probably ended up being a 32! ¬†I graded out to the 38 over the hip and then back to the 36. ¬†The crotch depth was lengthened by 1cm. ¬†Daughter No2 is pretty tall and the finished length was perfect.

island 1 She’s having a fabulous holiday exploring Madeira and eating her way around the island! ¬†She is definitely entering the right profession, food is central to her day! ¬†I am going to have to put Madeira on my list of places to visit, her photos have made me very keen to do my own exploring.

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Front details.

In addition to the culottes, I rescued a left over piece of green linen from the scrap box and made the shorts version as well. ¬†There was enough on one piece for the front and back, and thankfully I found another piece for the pockets, facings and turn-ups (they aren’t supposed to be separate but I had no choice…).

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Green linen culotte shorts

It was only when the shorts were 99% finished that I realised that it wasn’t a trick of the light, or my tired eyes that made it look like there were two shades of green on the shorts. ¬†OOPS!! ¬†The other piece of green linen wasn’t the same! ¬†Oh dear, I hope it looks like it was supposed to be like this, a design feature!! ¬†The perils of using scraps I guess! ¬†I’m very slowly working on reducing the stash of fabrics, both whole pieces and those pesky scraps and left-overs.

 

Catching up on May

So, May did a disappearing act on me and now it’s halfway through June!! ¬†I have a couple of makes to show you, the first is in keeping with my reuse policy. ¬†I made a pair of viscose border print trousers last year in South Africa and packed all the left over bits of fabric in my suitcase, bringing them all home. ¬†I was determined to make use of it!

I decided to try my new favourite pattern, 105 from Burdastyle magazine February 2016.  The panels make it an ideal pattern for fabric that is in bits!  I arranged the pattern pieces to make the best use of the remaining fabric I had, using the selvage edge of the border for the hem.  I did pretty well and have only really small scraps left over.

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Mosaic Top, Burda 105 February 2016

I think this is my favourite version so far, it’s so soft and drapey! ¬†On this one I tweaked the neckline, making a small dart to stop some of the gaping that occurs on the first two I made. ¬†It’s worked well! ¬†The button is from the stash, part of a vintage collection I picked up at an antiques shop.

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I’ve French Seamed all the innards so it’s as pretty on the inside as it is on the outside. ¬†I love it so much that it featured 4 times in Me Made May! ¬†It’s the only top I repeated like this!

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Day 10

With my navy linen trousers made last year.

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Day 15

With my Birkin Flares.

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Day 25

With my white linen Burdastyle trousers.

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Day 30

With my grey Burdastyle trousers.

I guess you could call this a good make then, well on its way to 30 wears… ¬†Next up are a few items I made quickly for Daughter No2. ¬†She made me a nice long list of Burda patterns to trace for this year and managed to allocate some fabrics from the stash towards some of them. ¬†As she was heading to Madeira for 2 weeks in June I thought I’d best make a start and she could have some for her holiday. ¬†I’ll do a few posts this week to catch up and then start on the June makes!