Two for One

This weekend has been pretty productive for me, I got the cushions finished and made good progress with the jacket pattern for the grey wool..  I have kept it pretty straight forward.  I have a limited amount of fabric, so I cannot go too mad on seam detailing etc.  This is the initial sketch, nothing over the top.

Jacket Sketch

Everything has gone together fairly well, I have kept to the panel seams in front and back, although I have curved the back panel seam a little, this takes it closer to the centre back seam, I am hoping it will be a visual slimming line..  But overall it didn’t have much oomphf.  I decide to something with the sleeves …

Darted Sleeve Head
Pattern for Sleeve Head - see all the alterations??

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I altered the sleeve head to accommodate 3 short darts.  It took a while, and was tricky with all the layers of paper I already had going on!  This has the effect of adding about 3m to the width of the shoulders, which is great if you have no waist little waist definition.  Broadening the shoulders makes the waist appear narrower than it really is – bonus!!  I also cut the sleeves 10cm short, and kept an angled hem line.  I added 2.5cm flare to the back seam of both the upper and lower sleeve.

Jacket pattern pieces, pinned on calico to toile.

So it looks pretty good, but – the collar and rever combination appear a little small with the new sleeve-head.  I think the rever could do with being 2cm wider, and the collar needs to be adjusted so the proportions are correct.  But if I still had a “normal” sleeve-head they would be fine.

The Back
Front, see those sleeves! Fitting alterations are pinned.

This is where the “2 for 1” comes in.  I will trace off another sleeve from the sleeve block, and keep the head normal.  This will work just fine in the jacket as it is.  Then I will trace off the front panel and adjust the rever and draft a new collar.  This front & collar will be used with the big sleeve.   The rest of the jacket can stay exactly the same!  So I have two patterns – yay!!

Jacket front, seams altered.

Sorry about the fuzzy pics, I was using the self timer, and I cannot work out where to stand to be in focus!!

So what do you think of the collar & rever vs sleeve proportions??

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Author: Anne W

I love fabric, and sewing. And I could do nothing else but sew, all day, every day, if I could!

3 thoughts on “Two for One”

  1. I was fascinated to read your blog. I wish I had more time to do all the dressmaking you do-jealous!
    My daughter is about to embark (hopefully) on a fashion degree and is doing a foundation art diploma and I get excited at all the stuff she does! I myself teach textiles in a girls grammar school and loved your applique cushions (a project I do at school) I have a trunk full of fabric in the loft-like you, I can’t go passed a fabric shop without going in and usually buying something. Although where I live (Grantham) there is VERY limited fabric shopping opportunity. Anyway, just to say I think you outfits are amazing!!

  2. Hi Bethan, thanks!! I love sewing, I get such a kick out of it, and buying fabric! I only have so much time for it because I am no longer teaching…
    Daughter no 1 is off to Uni this year (hopefully!!) to do Surface/textile Design, I am pretty sure my fabric addiction has rubbed off on her. Fabric shops are deathly – when we go on holiday I quickly Google the locality to see what opportunities there are for fabric. :s Bad for the budget!
    If you can travel, why not come to Birmingham at the end of March for the Sewing for Pleasure Show? There will be no end of fabric there… 😉 Closer to home, do you ever go to Alison Smith’s Fabulous Fabric in Ashby de la Zouche? She very often has great stock of ex-Paul Smith lines and always has great supplies of lingerie fabrics.

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